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BewitchedSalem is for Spirits, Spooks and Sweet Surprisesby Jackie PerrinIn the days and weeks leading up to Halloween, Salem, Massachusetts, the town famous for its spirited past, is positively haunted – by swarms of spook seeking tourists. The crowds are legendary. Just ask a waiter or a shop clerk who has survived the frenzied fall season and lived to tell about it. During the month of October, say local residents, it’s nearly impossible to find a parking spot in the thriving village north of Boston, much less a hotel room Locals arise in the wee morning hours to do their marketing, before the streets are taken over by eager sightseers. Those who are able to walk to work do, hoping to avoid the inevitable traffic gridlock. Spooked? Fear not. The spirit of Salem extends far beyond October 31. 
For families with kids in tow, that’s great news. Spring and summer, when crowds are thinner, the pace is calmer, and the chill in your bones comes from the ever-present witches' brew, rather than the wicked winds off the Atlantic Ocean, are ideal times to Be Witched. Can you say school break getaway? A trip to Salem is a great addition to a Boston vacation, or else a nice detour on the way to The Cape. While you’ll surely be spooked by the many spirited attractions, there’s plenty more to do–from museums to old-fashioned arcade games–in the historic harbor town. While Halloween themed haunts are wildly popular, say local tourism officials, Salem made its most important mark in American history as a major port for East Indies trade. For an easygoing day around town, spring for passes on the Salem Trolley. (978) 744-5469; $12 ages 15-adult, $6 children ages 6-14). The jump on/jump off trolley operates from 10 am to 5 pm daily and makes stops at most area attractions. The Good, the Bad and the HauntedSalem is best known for its haunted attractions. Most are what you might expect from a town whose spirited side is highly publicized, from a witch themed wax museum to haunted cemetery tours. 
There’s even a famous living local witch – Laurie Cabot. The Wiccan High Priestess and official Witch of Salem is the owner of the whimsical Salem store, The Cat, the Crow and the Crown. Stop in to see her, and pick up a spell or a potion. Spooky attractions not to miss include the New England Pirates Museum (274 Derby Street, 978-741-2800), and The Salem Wax Museum (282 Derby Street, (978-740-2929). A decidedly different yet delightful different ghostly detour is "The Eerie Legends of Salem” show at The Griffen Theater, 978-317-1169. The charming playhouse at 7 Lynde Street features one-man shows chronicling the history of witchcraft, in a spooky yet not too frightening format. Pickering Wharf 
The House of the Seven Gables There’s something you should know about The House of the Seven Gables: Nathaniel Hawthorne didn't live there. The birthplace of the famous author who penned the book by the same name was located a few blocks away on Union Street, and was moved next door, to its present location, in 1958. The House of the Seven Gables, a spectacular 1668 triangular tipped structure, was the home of Hawthorne’s cousin, Susannah Ingersoll, whom he often visited, and was the inspiration for Hawthorne’s book by the same name. A 45-minute guided tour covers the history of the residence–with a tight architectural focus–and ends in a stunning English garden. After the tour, guests are free to explore Hawthorne’s adjacent residence on their own. 
Be forewarned: Participants in the Gables tour are asked to ascend many narrow staircases. The rooms, in keeping with the period architecture, are cramped and ceilings are low. While these details hold magical allure for young tour-goers, if you are wide of waist, extra tall, or have a fear of crowded spaces, you might want to skip this portion of the tour. Don’t miss the gift shop–a book-filled nook staffed by locals who possess a good knowledge of area history and attractions. If you're seeking advice on the best of Salem, take a minute or two to chat. 
Salem Willows: Cheap and Wholesome Family Fun at 171-185 Fort Avenue, 978-745-0251 The seaside park known as the Salem Willows, established in 1958, is a throw-back in time, to the era when weeks, not days, were spent at the shore, playing penny arcade games and riding bumper cars, eating fried clams and hamburgers ordered from strip mall storefronts, topped off with a shaved ice–the genuine kind. Swimming isn’t recommended at the small strip of beach, but there's a kayak shack on the water (PlumIslandKayak.com), where you can rent a boat or sign up for a scenic tour. The best part of Salem Willows? You won't leave feeling like you've been fleeced. Here, you’ll discover a vacation spot that delivers honest, wholesome family entertainment at an affordable price. Ahhh. Now that's refreshing. Who needs the beach? Peabody Essex Museum (PEM) P.E.M. stands for the Peabody Essex Museum, world-famous for its Asian as well as American art collection. A new wing, designed by renowned architect Moshe Sadifie (the same designer of Rochester’s Renaissance Square prototype) is the site the Yin Yu Tang house a separately ticketed and very popular exhibit. 3 to-dos for Families at the Peabody Essex Museum 
1. Hoot and Holler at Idea Studios Idea Studios is an interactive art immersion. It's fun, fun, fun for kids and families! Studio exhibits and activities change along with the museum exhibits. Be sure to check out the drawing and magnification stations, as well as the jukebox. Featuring 10 owl-themed songs, from reggae to Carly Simon, it’s a toe-tapping good time. 2. Follow the Family Guide The Peabody Essex publishes a kid-friendly learning guide. For those willing to make the commitment of time as well as brain cells, it’s brilliant. The 30 page handbook to the art of observation takes children and families from exhibit to exhibit. Along the way, you'll learn the principles of balance, contrast, proportion and unity. The guide itself is attractively designed - with beautiful photos and typography -a nice keepsake for a family travel journal. 3. Go Ga Ga at the Gift Shop An attraction unto itself (seriously), the Peabody Essex’s gift shop features a great selection of one-of-a-kind bags and textiles, silk and embroidered Asian wear, books, prints, and home decor. Eating in SalemA few spots to nosh with the family. Finz Seafood Restaurant & Grill Featuring the freshest seafood as well as kid fare with a healthy twist, this chic waterside venue is a hit with all ages. Request a table on the back deck, and watch the ships come in. Reservations recommended 
Ye Old Pepper Company The oldest existing candy company in the U.S. is a Salem must-see. Ye Old Pepper makes all manner of antiquated treats, such as horehound candy, as well as some more modern treats. Don’t miss the giant turtles and peanut butter cups – at $1.25 each they’re a steal. Derby Fish Fish is in at this Salem gem, from Boston style chow-dah and seafood stew to fruits of the sea, broiled or fried. Take in or eat out. Jaho Coffee and Tea This cozy coffee bar features homemade gelato and a sidewalk seating area. Indoors, you’ll find a selection of board games for the kids. Where to StayWe recommend that families with small children seek accommodations in Salem proper, where most attractions are accessible by foot or trolley. Salem Waterfront Hotel & Suites Located on Pickering Wharf at the foot of Salem Harbor, this village hotel features an indoor pool and is within walking distance to major attractions. If you’re stopping over on the way to Cape Cod, or are in need of a room around the busy Halloween season, try these Peabody area lodgings. Hampton Inn Hotel – North Shore Springhill Suites by Marriott- Peabody For more information on Salem area attractions, accommodations and events, contact the North of Boston Convention & Visitors Bureau at 978-977-7760 or visit NorthOfBoston.org. ###
© 2006, Jackie Perrin Jackie Perrin (a.k.a. Moms on the Move!) is a freelance journalist residing with her family in upstate New York's apple country. She contributes regularly to travel and parenting media. |
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